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Wild Fermentation: The Flavor, Nutrition, and Craft of Live-Culture Foods cookbook by Sandor Katz

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Books : Cooking : English
 

This is the only
cookbook that I know of that you will read from cover to cover. It is not the dry "do this in this order" kind
of book, it walks with you on your culinary endevors like your mom or grandma would, telling you stories along the way,
including the secrets that make not just sourdough bread, but unforgettable sourdough bread.
Sandor doesn't just
tell us, he shows us, how to be self-sufficient about making and storing food (with little need for a stove or a
refrigerator): making sourdough, cheese, miso, making tempeh, making wine, beer and, it seems, almost every other
fermented food made the world over. And he gives you a list of resources where you can order the most mundane and exotic
of starter cultures and even seaweed from our own Atlantic coast.
And your concept of "self" will never
be the same again. He shows us how to reclaim and restore a part of ourselves that has protected us like the ozone layer
protects the earth: the world of microbes in and around us, the protective cloak of the microecology that is meant to be
a part of us like our skin.
Fermented foods restore a health balance like no probiotics and vitamins can. Happy
reading, happy fermenting, happy eating! 

- Noemi Barabas, Amazon.com

`Wild Fermentation' by
Sandor Ellix Katz appears like a living fossil of the sixties counterculture, surfacing after forty years of being both
shaped and scarred by the currents and tides of the last forty years. The author is a member of a very sixties hippie
influenced rural community whose lifestyle seems to be grown directly from the soil laid down by `The Whole Earth
Catalogue', `Easy Rider', `Alice's Restaurant', and the Hog Farm, but without any trace of the Merry Pranksters' antics
or inclinations towards mind-altering drugs. The shaping of the last forty years is seen in the author's being HIV
positive AIDs infected young man with a major interest in sharing his passion for fermented foods with the rest of the
world through modern publishing and scholarly rigor.
Fermented food products are probably much more common in our
lives today than they have been since the advent of the processed foods industry. And, this is a fact that even the
average foodie may not be conscious. A quick inventory of fermented foods commonly used in modern American homes will
show how widespread they have become.
The most obvious fermented product is beer, which has always been with us.
Their cousins, wines and meads are also the product of fermentation. Virtually all cheeses are produced by fermentation,
and our interest in and consumption of artisinal cheeses is rising fast. Yogurt is a close cousin of cheeses and
consumption of yogurt has been rising since the early seventies. Sauerkraut and Choucroute have been with us since the
beginning, but Asian fermented cabbage such as Kimchee and other fermented vegetables are becoming more popular. Pickles
have also been a part of western cuisine for millennia Another part of the increasing interest in Asian foods is an
increase in consumption of miso and tempeh, both from fermented soybeans. Asian fermented fish sauces from Thailand and
Vietnam are also much more common today than they were 50 years ago. The granddaddy of fermented foods for Western
cultures is yeast bread, especially sourdough breads.
Fermentation has at least four beneficial results, two of
which have been known since prehistoric times. The first and most important effect is that fermentation is a method of
natural preservation by the creation of acetic acid (acid in vinegar) or lactic acid (acid from milk sugar). The second,
represented most clearly by the brewing of beer, is in the action of microorganisms on sugars to produce ethanol
(alcohol in beer, wine, and liquor). The third is based on our physiological salivation response to acidic foods, or
even the anticipation of acidic foods, thereby making the mouth feel of these foods more succulent by the combination of
natural food moisture and our own saliva. Ancients may have sensed the last beneficial result, but it probably has not
been fully realized until the 20th century. This is the ability of fermentation to break down foods which were hard to
digest into different products which are both easier to digest and more nutritious. The two best examples of this action
are the conversion of soy carbohydrates into miso and the conversion of milk into yogurt.
All of this has made
fermentation into a darling of vegan advocates, as it broadens the range of useable non-animal protein and makes it all
more palatable. It has also made fermentation into a favorite of alternate lifestyle nutritionists such as Sally Fallon,
the author of the excellent book `Nourishing Traditions' who supplied a Foreword to this book. Fermentation is also one
of the hallmarks of the slow food movement. Aside from the North African method for preserving lemons, I know of no
other culinary methods that take as long to complete.
Anyone who has made pickles, sourdough bread, or beer should
have a very good idea of the times involved in fermentation. And this doesn't even get into some of the olfactory
`delights' that accompany the process of fermentation.
The author covers all of the types of fermentation mentioned
above, devoting the greatest amount of space to vegetable, bean, and dairy fermentation. Bakers should not miss the
lesser attention paid to breads, as for every book on yogurt, pickles, and kraut, there are ten books which cover
artisinal baking with its sourdough sponges, poolishs, and begas.
On the political front, the most active issue
regarding fermentation is the issue of unpasteurized cheeses being imported into or made in the United States. It is
truly ironic that the home of Louis Pasteur relishes their raw cheeses while the squeaky-clean US won't let it in.
Aside from the thoroughly careful presentation the author gives of his material, the veracity of the book is
strengthened by the extensively footnoted research behind his statements and the fact that the fruits of fermentation
are essential to the lifestyle of the author and his comrades at their rural homestead. The similarity to both the
hippie counterculture doctrines and the Amish lifestyle are unmistakable. One would almost take them for being scions of
the Amish except for the names cited in the acknowledgments that I found myself checking against the names of the
communities' goats. We owe this book in part to humans who go by the names Echo, Nettles, Leopard, Orchid, Spark, Book
Mark, and Ravel Weaver.
I also thank Echo, Nettles, Leopard, et al and author Sandor Ellis Katz for this deeply
thought out exposition of a pervasive and growing part of the modern culinary and nutritional environment.
This
book may not be for everyone, or even for every foodie, but if anything I said sounds a chord in your psyche, I
recommend you get a copy of this book and read it carefully.

- B Marold, Amazon.com
                                                             

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